Kyoto Weekend

04 Sep 2007

Because it was a holiday weekend for US citizens, we decided to spend two nights in Kyoto. Getting there was a breeze because we took the bullet train. We found out it saved a lot of money to go to a travel agent (you go to agents for most processes in Japan), and we got a package deal with the hotel and Shinkansen. For the two of us, it was about 50,000 Yen for the weekend, whereas a typical double room in Kyoto is around 20,000 Yen per night and the Shinkansen is over 10,000 Yen per person. You have to go to a JR travel window or an authorized travel agent to purchase Shinkansen tickets anyway, so using an agent to save money on the hotel is logical. We caught the Shinkansen at Shin-Yokohama station (though you can get it at Tokyo station or, as we later found out, Odawara) and it took about 2 1/2 hours to get to Kyoto.

SLEEPING

Our hotel was not right at Kyoto station. It was at Shijo station on the Karasuma line. We paid less because of this, but we are so glad that we chose this location. Shijo is actually a very central location--within reasonable walking distance from most Kyoto sites. Don't get duped into the more expensive hotels closer to Kyoto station because it's really easy to take the trains in Japan and our hotel was right on top of Shijo station (see their web site) and had all of the amenities we needed. Breakfast was not included, however, but there were coffee houses and bakeries nearby. The only note about this hotel is that it was western-style. Japanese-style ryokan hotels are also offered in Kyoto, but are generally more expensive (charging around 25,000 Yen per-person). However, Ryokan rooms come with a bath, meal, and individualized attention that you do not get in a western-style hotel.

GETTING AROUND

If you like walking, most of Kyoto can be done on foot. However, your feet can get a bit sore and you may not get to see as many sites, so for a better option I would suggest buying a one-day bus pass. It is only 500 Yen and you can ride the busses in Kyoto all day. Buy the passes either at your hotel lobby or at the major bus stops (there will be a vending machine at the bus stop). You can pick up a bus map from your hotel lobby which can tell you which busses to take to which locations and where major transfer points occur. The trains and subway in Kyoto are actually pretty pricey (starting at 210 Yen for one or two stops) and are not as convenient as the busses, but they are faster and slightly easier with a stroller. For more information, visit Kyoto's official web site.

THE SITES

There are so many sites to see in Kyoto that it is difficult to list them all. However, we were there for about 48 hours and managed to see the following:

Kyoto Station - A huge train station full of shopping, restaurants, and LOTs of tourists and travelers. It is just as impressive as Tokyo station (though there are a few stations in Japan which are slightly more impressive).
Kyoto Tower - Outside Exit 2 of Kyoto station. Take the elevator inside to Floor 11 and buy a ticket (720 Yen per adult). The view is excellent and so is the Air Conditioning on hot summer days! Also, the telescopes are free for use and there is a guide along the walls that tells you what you are viewing. However, I never really could figure out what the walls were describing. This might be a great way to look around and plan your trip.
Nijo Castle - (Closes at 4 pm, gardens close at 5). This was the home of the Shoguns during the Tokugawa era. The tour costs $$Yen, but it allows you to enter the palace and walk around on the old floors. There are lots of descriptive tags and some figures placed to show you how the castle would be used. The gardens are pretty and full of very old builings. For the best use of your time, I would suggest arriving before 4 pm. You cannot take photos inside the castle (the artwork inside is light-sensitive).
Kyoto Imperial Gardens (we did not get there in time to enter the palace) - Large, lavish gardens which are open all of the time for anyone to walk through. There are lots of wild animals in this garden. Watch out for mosquitos!
Kyoto Shopping Arcade (Shinkyougoku Street) - A huge, covered outdoor shopping area with many high-fashion shops and restaurants. Expect to pay a bit of money for anything here. However, there was one omelet restaurant that had very reasonable prices and huge portions.
Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion) Temple - A trip to Kyoto is not complete without a visit to Kinkaku-ji - the golden temple. It is literally all gold, sits on a pond, and has gorgeous scenery. The temple is now a Zen-Buddhist temple, though it was originally a residence for a shogun. A golden pavilion has been here since 1397, but the current building dates to 1955. With tons of beautiful photo opportunities, it is a must-see!
Gion - The Geisha district and Old Kyoto. This is where you can get a taste of what Kyoto was like pre-world war II. It is famed for Geisha walking in the street, but we were told it is now difficult to see them. They generally only come out around 6:00 at night and go straight to work (at the Minamiza Theater). You can pay around 10,000 Yen to see them perform in a show. We only saw one Geisha, but she was not in full dress. There are lots of great shops and food, especially in support of Tea Ceremonies, so make sure to visit!
Kennin-ji Temple - The oldest Zen Buddhist temple in Kyoto, dating to the early 13th century. The original gate from this period still stands! You can pay to walk through this temple and take photographs inside. The inner gardens are beautiful zen rock gardens and, while walking through, you can feel the age of the place. Cross the gated path to get to a temple containing the golden Buddha and a fantastic dragon ceiling painting.
Yasaka Shrine - A typical Japanese temple with various small shrines and large gates. This one is next to Gion and surrounded by street vendors. If you are limited for time, you may put precedence on other sites.
Ysaka Pagoda - A 3-tier pagoda you can view on the way to Kiyomizu-dera. It is good for a circum-ambulation if you are Buddhist! It also photographs quite well. There are even larger pagodas in Kyoto (Toji temple and Daigo Sanpoin Temple), but we did not make it to those.
Kiyomizu-dera Temple - This is home to the most impressive sunset in Kyoto. Whenever you see brochures for Kyoto, you are likely to see Kiyomizu-dera in them. It is perched high atop a hill, boasting a large veranda. The temple was founded in 780 AD and is dedicated to Japanese Buddhism. It is worth the long trek up the hill (or, take a Rickshaw for a unique experience). Also, enjoy a drink from the purified Buddhist water below the temple (don't worry, the cups are steralized between uses!)
Urasenke and Omotosenke houses - these are the houses dedicated to Chanoyu - The way of tea. Both houses are on the same street near Kuramaguchi station. I studied Urasenke in college, so I thought it would be neat to see the origin of that particular school of tea. I was disappointed to discover that you are only allowed to view the outside fences of these schools and not actually enter unless you are formally invited. I can say 'I was there' but I certainly cannot say what these schools are like because I was only allowed to be on the outside. If you want to see these houses, I would suggest finding a way of getting an invitation BEFORE going to Kyoto. Otherwise you will only be able to see the gates.

There are many more places I would like to see in Kyoto, so we may go back for another trip. We could have seen more if we hadn't spent so much time walking. My suggestion to you is to get a map before getting to Kyoto, plan the sites you want to see, buy a bus pass and see as much as you can.